Muse has a distinctly Parisian feel, with its licensed pavement cafe, but rumour had it they also excelled at that most English of traditions - the Sunday roast.
Mrs E and I were excited to visit; we’d heard a lot about the place since it opened in 2012, especially after it became the first in Yarm to get a mention in the coveted Michelin Guide.
The owners wanted to bring a bit of European street cafe culture to the town, but the day we visited was steel-grey and wintry and, alas, there was to be no al fresco vibe for us.
Inside, however, is very impressive - think smart, chic and ultra modern; metro tiles and bright yet tasteful pop art.
Muse can get very busy and we’d pre-booked the table, but we got there 20 minutes late due to unforeseen circumstances. I don’t usually like to apportion blame but it was, in fairness, entirely Mrs E’s fault.
She was apologetic on arrival but the staff were spot on, taking our tardiness very much in their stride and greeting us with big smiles.
We ordered a glass of Shiraz for her and an even bigger one for me. There was no ale on draught; although you could get it by the bottle if you so desired. The wine was first rate and there was a very good selection.
Given the freezing weather outside, Mrs E went for a warming Onion Soup to start. It was thick and creamy, not the classic French soup she’d envisaged - but the dish was packed full of flavour and it got the thumbs-up anyway.
I decided on the Potted Crab Pate with a crouton and beetroot puree, a simply presented starter which came in a jam jar with a thin crispy slice of toast.
Other starters included the Chorizo and Haricot Beans on Toast with a Poached Egg and a Chicken and Pea Risotto.
We both chose the Beef Dinner, which I thought was excellent - and the other half agreed with me. It came with a crisp Yorkshire pudding, seasonal veg, perfect roasties and a delicious side, which I can only describe as creamy cabbage and leek. The meat was flavoursome and tender, the only fault I could find was there weren’t enough potatoes for me but they soon brought me an extra helping free of charge.
Also on the menu was the Roast Loin of Pork with crackling, apple sauce and mash, a Roast Chicken Breast with bacon, black pudding and baby onion fricassee, tarragon mash and Madeira jus, and Hake with Samphire, cherry tomatoes, caper crush and shellfish cream.
Mrs E wanted to sample the tempting desserts on offer, so after much deliberation we went for the Spotted Dick with creme anglaise and a chocolate and orange ice-cream.
I’d never have thought those flavours would work so well together in a million years, but they did - and the whole lot disappeared in no time.
The dessert menu also included a Fruit Cake Sundae with brandy cream, orange and sultana ice cream, a White Chocolate Parfait with fig and apple chutney and Mixed Ice Creams.
Muse is North Yorkshire chef Marcus Bennett’s second joint venture following on from the success of his gastro-pub, the Bay Horse at Hurworth. It’s proved so popular, he’s opened a third venue - Italian eaterie Cena - opposited on Yarm High Street.
At £18.95 for two courses, Muse is not the cheapest Sunday lunch you’ll ever eat - but the quality is excellent and you certainly get what you pay for.
We’ll definitely be making a return visit to try the evening menu - or maybe when the sun’s shining to soak up some of that pavement cafe culture right here on Teesside.
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